I designed three different styles of canvas frames with three different mounting techniques, and they're all super simple to build. All you need are various pieces of wood and the tools shown below, and guess what? None of them are power tools! So if you're a little leery of wielding a power drill, router, or chop saw, don't worry! You don't need 'em. This low-fuss method will get the job done.
Tools:
-miter box saw (can be purchased for $15 on Amazon here)
-band clamp
-various clamps
-hammer
-tape measure
-pencil
-paint brush or rags
To begin, you'll need to decide which style of mount you want for your frame and how thick and detailed the frame will be. For a wider, chunkier frame, you'll need spacer wood for between the canvas stretcher and the edge of your frame. You can bring your art with you to the lumber yard (or just dimensions if you're shy about toting around your art) and try stacking together different pieces of wood, square dowels, and molding to get the look you want. Check out my frame profiles below to get ideas for your own frame, and if you want more detail in yours, don't be shy about adding molding too!
A recessed mount is a traditional framing technique where the art sits behind the frame and the very edge of the art is covered by the lip of the frame. A float mount, the most difficult to build, is sometimes used in canvas framing to give even more dimension to the piece by creating a decorative gap between the canvas's edge and the frame's edge. Something that you might see more frequently on larger pieces of canvas art is the flush mount, where the frame is simply attached to the edge of the canvas stretcher, with no lip on the front or back.
Flush Mount Frame
The flush mount frame I designed is mounted relatively flush with the surface of the canvas and is nailed directly to the edge of the canvas stretcher, without assembling the frame first. It's the easiest frame to make, in my opinion, and I think it looks nice with larger pieces of artwork.
Step One: To begin, I purchased two 8' long pieces of cedar 1x2s, lightly sanded them, and then stained them with my own gray mix of these three stains pictured above: Rustoleum Driftwood, Rustoleum Willow, and Minwax Golden Oak.
Step Two: Rather than measuring the edge of my frame and transferring those measurements to the lumber, I just laid my 1x2 against the frame and marked the length of the canvas directly onto the lumber.
After making the cut, you may want to lightly sand down the corners if you have any splintering.
Step Five: Use finishing nails or wire brads to attach the frame to the canvas stretcher, making sure to also drive nails through the mitered joints in the corner, giving the wood glue some extra strength. Wood glue isn't very strong when applied to end grains of wood, so the nails are a necessary step unless you use a stronger adhesive like Gorilla Glue.
*When using a band clamp on soft wood, be sure to use a piece of scrap wood as a buffer between the clamp and the wood so the clamp doesn't leave an imprint on the wood. Not sure how to use a band clamp?
The traditional recessed mount frame utilizes a rabbet, or inset, for the art to sit nestled in behind the frame. It hides a small border of the art, which works out well if the edges of your canvas aren't finished. This frame is assembled prior to attaching the artwork, as opposed to the flush mount frame which is built directly onto the canvas stretcher.
The materials you need to build this particular frame are as follows:
-outside edge piece: 1/2x3" lumber
-middle piece: 1/2x2" lumber
-inside edge piece: 1/2" lumber
-top edge piece: 3/8x2" lumber
Step One: Glue together the 1/2x3" outside piece with the middle and inside edge piece as listed in the supplies above and shown in the above right image. You'll need to use clamps to hold together the wood as the glue dries. Be sure to wipe away any seeping glue with a damp cloth before it dries.
Step Four: Cut your lengths of wood with the miter box saw according to the measurements from step three. I like to err on the side of longer than necessary, because you can always cut off more than you need! Lay the parallel boards against each other to make sure they are the same length.
After the fit is just right, spread some wood glue with your finger onto the edges of the frame pieces and fit together the joints with the band clamp, wiping away any excess glue before it dries.
Flip the frame over and attach the canvas from the back by driving longer nails through the canvas stretchers and into the frame.
I personally think float mount frames look the most professional, but maybe that's because it was the most finicky of my frames to make, so I was the most proud of this one! Float mounts leave a space between the edge of the canvas and the sides of the frame. They provide dimensionality to the framed piece and are a great way to show off gallery wrapped edges of canvas art. I personally thought this float mount frame would be great to give a more substantial feel to a thin, less expensive canvas piece.
For my float frame, I used the following wood:
-1/2x2" lumber painted white
-1/2" square dowel stained dark (though I suggest using a 1/2x1" piece of lumber instead)
Step One: Glue the bottom piece of the frame to the side piece and clamp into place. Make sure you wipe away the excess glue before it dries! I used a 1/2" square dowel for this, but it was exceptionally difficult to later attach the canvas to such a narrow space, so if I were to go back in time, I would select a 1/2x1" piece of lumber instead.
Follow Steps 3-5 of the recessed mount frame above, but instead of adding 1/8" to the dimension of the artwork for your frame, add about 1/4" to create the float space in the frame.
It was a little difficult attaching the canvas to that little dowel in my float frame, but I love the results! Such a handsome frame ready for display!
Credits // Author and Photography: Mandi Johnson. Photos edited with Spring and Valentine of the Signature Collection.